by: Traveler
This spring change is the result of months of research and post-reading. It increases the spring force by about 30% both front and back. My impression of the whole change is that it feels tighter, more cohesive, and more stable. My FZ1 now feels like it has 'matched components' for the combined weight. It will hold a better line in turns, and it reduced squat and dive.
Other Related Links:
Front Springs Replacement
I replaced the stock front springs with part number FS 37 x
315 x 1.0kg. from Traxxion. A procedure
was included and I'll refer to it as Traxxion Procedure.
Special Tools needed for this job: vise grips, pipe cutter,
metric ruler, FZ1 tool kit
1) Remove Front Wheel and Fender
Pat's
Page (Front Wheel Removal) or see Service Manual (page 4-3)
I ran out of duct tape, so alternatively, I hung the brake calipers with
tie wraps to the blinkers.
2) Remove Forks
See bigworm1's
fork upgrade procedure or see Service Manual (page 4-48).
Or, simply - loosen upper triple clamp bolts so the fork cap isn't locked,
then crack the fork cap bolt loose, do not remove it. To drop the forks out,
loosen the lower triple clamp bolts - support the fork
when doing this, don't let it freefall.
3) Disassemble Fork Spring Assembly
4) Measure and Cut New Spacer (for external top-out spring forks)
5) Add Fork Oil
6) Assemble New Fork Spring Assembly
7) Re-Install Forks
Again see bigworm1's
fork upgrade procedure or see Service Manual (page 4-51).
Basically, insert fork cartridges, align surface fork cap with surface of
triple clamp (per the manual), or align the mark on the fork tube (1.5mm
lower) with the surface of the triple clamp (the way my FZ was from the
dealer). Tighten lower and upper as needed to install fender and front wheel.
Pump the forks a few times (procedure on Pat's site - Pat's Page
(Front Wheel Removal) if desired. Torque lower triple clamp bolts to
17ft-lb, cap bolt to 18ft-lb, upper triple clamp bolts to 22 ft-lb. Finish all
other front wheel related torques.
8) Set Sag and initial settings
I measured the sag using a zip tie and the surface of the lower triple
clamp. I got 35mm right off the bat - perfect according to the Traxxion
procedure. That was with the preload still all the way out, so I turned it a
few hairs to get it off the hard stop and left it there at about 4.5.
Initial settings: my recommendations are - preload 4, compression damping
8, and rebound damping 10.This was a 30% increase in spring
force.
Rear Spring Replacement
I replaced the stock shock spring with a spring, part number
SSH 7" x 550lb. from Traxxion.
Special Tools needed for this job: Coil Spring Compressor Tool ITEM 3980-0VGA Harbor Freight has them
for $9.99. There should be a store near you also. Retail Stores Also a 15/16" combination wrench for that coil
spring compressor tool.
I had the rear wheel OFF doing this, but I don't think you
need to, so I'll skip the rear wheel part.
1) Remove Shock Absorber Assembly Service Manual Section (4-63)
2) Remove old Spring and Install New Spring
3) Install Rear Shock Assembly
8) Set sag and Initial settings
I haven't measured sag yet, because it is so involved. Initial settings: my
recommendations are for a 180lb. rider: preload - position 2 (1 click from
minimum), compression damping 7, and rebound damping 8. This was a 34%
increase in spring force.
Email me if you have any corrections, questions,
suggestions: Email Traveler
Last Updated: 09-15-2003
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The marks YAMAHA® and FZ1® are used under license from Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.
The information contained here is for entertainment purposes only. No information presented
here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician.
Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk.
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or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.
To remove the locknut can be a bit tricky,
although mine was easy. An extra set of hands might be helpful. While
pulling up on the damper rod threads, compress the spring using the spacer
or spring seat enough to take force off of the locknut, then unscrew the
locknut by hand. (This is where they recommend a special tool to hold the
damper rod while removing the locknut, I didn't need it. Serv. Manual Pg.
4-48).
I wish I had taken better pics!
Thread new spring onto the shock assembly
first, then compress the new spring until the retaining ring can be
installed. Maintain the minimum PRELOAD setting to make it easier.
The information on this web site is NOT approved or endorsed by Yamaha Motor Corporation in any way.