by: Edward Harp

A word of caution: you are responsible for modifying your motorcycle. Installing these LEDs requires permanent modification of your motorcycle's headlight assembly in the form of two drilled holes. The electrical components added to your motorcycle are not permanent, however if they are installed incorrectly could possibly cause damage to your motorcycle's electrical system. I cannot take responsibility for any damage you cause to your motorcycle or any other consequences of installing this kit. If you are not confident in your ability to modify your motorcycle and install these components, you should reconsider installing this kit.

I have taken great care in designing, building and testing the kit. It has been successfully installed in over 40 motorcycles. There is no warranty per se, however I will happily replace any defective components. I leave it to your sense of honesty to determine if you damaged the kit or if a component simply failed. I will also give you your money back if you return the kit to me in essentially intact shape.

I am not a company, I am simply a lone guy carefully making these kits in my spare time.

These instructions refer to photos below (scroll down).

Required things:

  1. Remove the fairing inserts. There are three screws on each side. Be careful to not snap the alignment tabs on the inside of the fairing.

    Note: if you happen to have the Zero Gravity windscreen, I recommend you remove it prior to removing the inserts. Otherwise the bottom edges of the screen may scratch the inserts as you remove them.

  2. Drill the holes. At the top outside corners of the back of the headlight pod, you will see two round areas with a small nipple in the center (one on each side). See image 5 for a photo of the hole already drilled. See image 4 for a view of the hole looking in from the front.

    Note these holes must be 11/16”. 5/8” and you will not be able to mount the lamp. 3/4” and the grommet will not seat well. If you cannot find one, ask to borrow mine. See image 2 for a photo of the hole saw I used. Note that several people have also reported good results using an 11/16” spade bit. I have done this myself to similar plastic and it does work.

    Use a knife or clippers to remove the small nipple in the center of each round area. This makes positioning the pilot drill much easier. Drill small pilot holes using a drill smaller than the hole saw’s pilot drill, say 1/8” or smaller. It is easier to aim a small bit and ensure that the final hole will be centered. Do not be aggressive when drilling. Go slow and just get through the plastic.

    Using the hole saw, cut an 11/6” hole centered where the nipple was. It is best to use a variable speed power drill and use a relatively slow speed. Do not push the saw into the plastic with any significant force. The trick here is to not shred the plastic and to not get plastic bits into the headlight pod.

    If you do get plastic bits in the headlight pod, they can be difficult to remove. I used a thin wooden dowel with double sided tape to remove a few bits I managed to get in on one side. Once I took my time on the second hole, I had no problems. You do not want to be poking around inside the headlight pod as you can scratch the reflectors and clear lens at the front of the pod.

    Once you have the holes drilled, you may want to clean up any excess plastic at the edges of the holes. Be careful to not make the holes any larger. Also note that the LED cluster will just fit through the opening. I will have tested the lamps I send you on a hole I know to be exactly the right size.

  3. Mount the lamps. The lamps are mounted from behind the headlight pod. See image 3.

    • push the LED light and threaded tube with one nut as close to the LEDs as possible into the hole. Push it in up to the black covered wires coming out of the back of the lamp. See image 5.

    • mount the rubber grommet in the hole. You will find it easier to push in if you wet the edges of the grommet with water. You do not want to get water in the headlight pod. Make sure the grommet is fully seated. See image 6.

    • pulling the black covered wires close to the lamp, pull the threaded tube back out of the hole in the center of the grommet. Wetting the rubber will ease getting it through. Hold the grommet in place with one hand while carefully pulling with the other. Do NOT pull very hard! See image 7.

    • slide the washer and nut over the wires and secure the lamp in place. At this point, you will want to look in from the front to line up the LEDs in a manner you like. Tighten the nut just enough to hold the lamp firmly. Do not over tighten! See image 8.

    • secure the lamp wires to the back of the headlight pod. Use a smaller zip tie and adhesive backed mount. Note the red backed mount is meant for something else.

  4. Connect the wires. Locate the stock turn signal wires running along the inside of the fairing. On the right side, this will be simple as they are the only wires. On the left side, there is also a bundle of other wires.

    Towards the front of the bike, you will find three banana plugs for the stock turn signal wires. Take note of the colors: black for ground, green or brown for the turn signal light and blue/red for the running light.

    One at a time, disconnect the banana plugs and connect to the relay harness per the wiring options chart at the end of this document. Refer to the wiring legend to determine which connection is which.

    Decide how you want the lights to behave, then choose a set of connections from the wiring options table and connect them. Note you may not need the separate green Y connectors, depending on how you want the lights to behave.

  5. Test the lights. Before going any further, turn on the ignition and check the operation of the LED lights and stock turn signals/running lights. If you note any problem double check your connections. If you still have problems, contact me immediately.

  6. Secure the wiring. I have supplied several large black zip ties for securing the relay harness and other wiring to the bike.

    On the left side, you will be able to secure the relay to the larger wire bundle.

    On the right side, you will need to attach the relay to the inside of the fairing. Attach the red backed zip tie mount to the relay using a large black zip tie. Then peel off the red backing and attach the relay to the inside of the fairing. Clean the area first to make sure you get good adhesion. Take care to mount the relay low enough as to not interfere with the insert when you reinstall it.

  7. Reinstall the fairing liners. And also the wind screen (ZG) if you found it necessary.

    Enjoy! Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. Also let me know if there is anything I can do to improve both the kits and these instructions. I am constantly looking for ways to improve this mod, not to mention coming up with new ones.

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The information contained here is for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician. Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk. By reading the information on this site, you agree to assume complete responsibility for any and all actual or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.