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This is an oil level light not an oil pressure light. It seems Yamaha is a bit off on the calibration for this sensor and maintaining the oil level between the two marks on the sight glass is insufficient. Topping off the oil level so it appears at the very top of the sight glass will usually cure the problem. Owners frequently report this condition immediately after an oil change so it appears many dealers are unaware of this problem.
No. The rubber piece is to isolate the exhaust system from vibration. That is only on the right side. There should be no matching rubber piece on the left.
A successful technique used by many has been to first soften the sticker glue with a hair dryer then apply WD40 and scrape the stickers off with your fingernails. Those stickers are on real good and it will take some time taking off just a little bit at a time. The WD40 should not damage the paint or windscreen but you should satisfy yourself of this by applying a small amount to a test area first. Continue scraping applying dryer heat and WD40 until the sticker and glue is gone then clean up the area with a mild detergent like Simple Green. Another product that can prove effective is Goo-Gone. There has been a report, however, of the Goo-Gone being difficult to clean up from the windscreen afterwards.
Ivan is Ivan Rovinsky of Ivan's Performance Products located in Rockland County, New York.
He is recognized expert in the field of motorcycle performance and has taken extraordinary steps in developing products for the FZ1. His approach is to develop and test each and every product personally on his own FZ1. His jet kit was developed through repeated cycles of needle modification followed by actual dyno testing. What sets Ivan apart is that he personally provides telephone support and answers each and every question you might have. If you want a Yosh exhaust without the logo riveted on for that factory look he can get it, and at discount prices. Written by a satisfied customer.
The main decision is whether to go with a slip-on or a full exhaust system. Go with a full system if you regularly ride at greater than 8000 rpm. There you will enjoy the full benefits. Full systems are quite a bit more expensive than slip-ons. Two choices are the Yoshimura or the Akrapovic. The Akrapovic is more expensive, louder, and makes a bit more power. Hindle and Leo Vinci also make full systems. You will want to rejet the carbs if you go the full system route. You also lose the benefits of the Yamaha EXUP valve. If your riding style is such that full throttle, greater than 8000 rpm runs are infrequent then a slip-on is a better choice.
A slip-on provides a nice mid-range to high rpm boost with an acceptable loss at the low end. Rejetting reclaims the low end and boosts the mid-range and high-end even more. Choice of slip-on is mostly a personal choice based on tolerance to noise level, appearance, and cost.
The Yamaha aftermarket GYT-R is among the noisiest, the Yoshimura Zyclone among the quietest. As you would expect, the GYT-R produces a slightly better performance boost than the Zyclone. Other loud cans are the D&D, MIG, TBR, and GYT-R. In the middle are the Akra, Micron, Hindle, and Leo Vinci. Additional quiet ones are the Hindle stealth and the Euro spec Leo Vinci.
The 5 mm Allen head bolt that holds down the front of the fuel tank seems to have a tendency to work itself loose. Many members have reported returning from rides to find the bolt gone. If this happens to you, you can use temporarily one of the 5 mm bolts that attaches the side plates just above the shift lever on the left or just above the brake pedal on the right. Use of blue loctite is recommended when replacing the bolt as well as torquing it down to its specification, 7.2 lb-ft, 10 Nm.
From the service manual: IowaZ' Fasteners Torque Specs Page
More windscreen data on IowaZ' site.
The Corbin seat is different than the stock seat. It is firmer for better useability on long rides. It gives the bike a nice appearance with the quality leather. It weighs about 5-6 lb more than the stock seat. Its design does place you a bit further away from the tank. The back of the dish is a little too far back for some but provides nice support for the lower back when you scoot back or are pressed back under acceleration. It's taller by about an inch for a longer reach to the ground or additional leg space to the pegs. If you are tall then none of these is an issue. Corbin will customize the seat for you if you don't mind the long wait. You must decide if its worth the money. Buying directly from Corbin saves about $100.
The most popular replacement grips seem to be the Pro Grip model 719 Gel grips. These come in a variety of colors, blue/black, grey/black, black/black. They are 125 mm long, a bit longer than the stock grips. They also are available in open end and closed end types. The FZ1 has bar end weights so the open end models will keep you from having to cut the ends open yourself.
After unscrewing the end weights, remove the stock grips with compressed air and a flat blade screwdriver. Some just cut them off and throw the pieces out. You may need to unscrew the switchgear on each side and move it in a bit to make room for the new, longer grips.
There are a number of ways to secure the new grips in place. All of these have been found to work. There is grip glue, alcohol, water, hair spray, nothing. Whatever you choose, make sure the grips don't slide on the bar. Think about the rain and what may be an adhesive in the dry will become a lubricant when wet.
As far as anyone knows, there is no difference between the 2001 and 2002 models. The 2002 model is available is the Silver color not available in 2001. There was a difference in the published compression ratios (11.4 for 2001 vs. 11.8 for 2002) but that is apparently a misprint and does not reflect a change in the engine. There are some slight cosmetic differences. 2002 bikes have darker FZ1 decals on the fairing. Also, the 2001 seat has additional stiching on the passenger portion.
Tire pressure (use factory recommendations):
This is a somewhat controversial question. You won't go wrong with the factory recommended Yamalube 4 (20W40) or SAE 20W40 type SE motor oil. But can you do better? Whatever you do it seems that you should wait until at least 2,000 miles before doing it to give the engine time to completely settle in.
The FZ1 is a wet clutch system and there is some body of opinion that warns against introducing excessively slick oils for reasons of possible clutch slippage. Mobil makes a version of their Mobil 1 synthetic specifically for motorcycles, Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40. This oil has less of an additive called ZDDP that is a friction reducer. There have not been any reports of anyone having trouble using this oil. Some actually report significantly better running with it. Other synthetic brands may be equally good. Some report using regular Mobil 1 automotive synthetic oil 15W50 which reportedly also has reduced amount of ZDDP with no problems.
Here is IowaZ' Oils Page.
Another Oil Report.
Here is an older article comparing automobile vs. motorcycle oils.
The recommended fuel for USA is simply 'unleaded.' A fuel's octane number indicates its ability to resist detonation. It is not a measure of its energy content or how much power an engine can produce that uses it. Those components in the fuel that give it a high octane rating themselves require more energy to burn. That energy must come from the fuel itself leaving less remaining for the engine to produce. Even though the FZ1 engine has a high compression ratio of 11.4:1 it can use a lower octane fuel. This is because the engine itself is small compared to an automobile's and is manufactured primarily of lightweight aluminum. It is recommended to use the middle grade of fuel, or 89 octane.
Yamaha dealers have 'PJ1 Coatings Yamaha Blue 1998-2001 Lacquer Paint' Part# PJ011027. Also 'Yamaha Metallic Silver Case Paint' rated to 500 degrees, Part# 17-SLV.
The factory recommended break in procedure is designed to minimize early life problems and not necessarily to produce the best performing engine. Race engines are broken in on a dyno in a very short period of time.
The consensus seems to be that a break in procedure which will produce an engine with the highest power output focuses on repeated heat cycles with incremental increases in both rpm and load over the break in period. So, what you should do is to break in your engine with numerous short duration rides that bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to fully cool between each of those rides. Each ride should slowly increase the maximum rpm at which you bring the engine. In addition, you should also slowly increase the load on the engine. That is, the amount the engine must struggle to achieve rpm. For example, full throttle, up hill, in top gear is high load. At the end of the break in period you are running up to redline at full throttle.
The worst thing you can do is to run at a steady rpm for a long period of time. That does nothing to break in the engine and actually does harm by introducing uneven wear upon critical engine parts.
Here is an excellent article on FZ1 Engine Break-In.
Another interesting technique.
A reasonably priced battery is the Westco Battery, Model 12V14B-4 Sealed AGM Battery for $57.95 with free shipping. More options are shown here including the OEM Yuasa for $149.75.
Last Updated: 6-15-2004
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The marks YAMAHA® and FZ1® are used under license from Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.
The information on this web site is NOT approved or endorsed by Yamaha Motor Corporation in any way.
The information contained here is for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician. Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk. By reading the information on this site, you agree to assume complete responsibility for any and all actual or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.